Preface
Acknowledgments
About the Author
CHAPTER 1 Technical Design
What Is a Technical Designer?
Design Development Process
Mood Board
Fabric Board
Trim and Color Board
Design 1
Design 2
Design 3
Design 4
The Technical Design Process
Proto/Sales Sample
Detailed Technical Sketch
1st Fit through Multiple Fits
The Preproduction Fit
Production Fit
Starting a Career As a Technical Designer
Tools of a Technical Designer
Tools Needed in a Fitting
CHAPTER 2 Technical Terms and Abbreviations
CHAPTER 3 All about Stitching
Stitching Importance For Technical Design
Fiber Types of Thread
100% Cellulose
Synthetic (Thermoplastic)
Aramid Fibers
Thread Construction
Stitches Per Inch (SPI)
Introduction
How to Measure the Stitch Length or Stitches per Inch
SPI Recommendations for Wovens and Knits
Summary
Stitch Types
Seam Types
CHAPTER 4 Technical Design Silhouettes and Details
Garment Terminology
Sleeves
Collars
Lapels
Necklines
Skirts
Pant
CHAPTER 5 All about Trims and Findings
What Are Trims and Findings?
Buttons and Fasteners
Zippers
Other Trims
CHAPTER 6 Guide: How to Measure
How to Use Guide
POM Standards
How to Measure Body Lengths
How to Measure Chest Widths
How to Measure Bottom Sweeps
How to Measure Shoulders
How to Measure Across Fronts And Backs
How to Measure Hoods
How to Measure Collars
How to Measure Necklines
How to Measure Sleeve Lengths
How to Measure Armholes
How to Measure Forearm/Elbow/Bicep
How to Measure Sleeve Cuff Openings
How to Measure Cuffs
How to Measure Waists
How to Measure Hips And Seats
How to Measure Thighs, Knees, Calves
How to Measure Leg Openings
How to Measure Inseams
How to Measure Outseams
How to Measure Rises
How to Measure Flvs
How to Measure Plackets
How to Measure Yokes
How to Measure Facings
How to Measure Vertical Trunks
How to Measure Crotches
How to Measure Bras
CHAPTER 7 Technical Design Packets
Cost Page
Sketch Page
Details Page
Fabrication Page
Trim and Findings Page
Specifications Page
Grading Page
Comments Page
Costing
Front and Back Sketch
Details Sketch
Trims and Findings
Fabrication
Specifications
Grading
Comments
Croquis
Notes
CHAPTER 8 How to Technically Fit and Correct Woven Garments
Fitting and Corrections For Tops
1st Fit Corrections—Floral Blouse
1st Fit Corrections—Chambray Shirt
2nd Fit Corrections—Chambray Shirt
Fitting Bottoms
1st Fit Corrections—Denim Jeans
CHAPTER 9 How to Technically Fit and Correct Stretch Garments
How to Technically Fit Correct Stretch Garments
Fitting and Corrections For Tops
1st Fit Corrections—Knit Top
CHAPTER 10 Complete Grading Guide: Sizing tor Men, Women, Children, and Infants/Toddlers
Grading and Technical Design
Computerized Grading and Marking
Graded Nests
Grading Specification Charts
Women’s Woven Top
Men’s/Women’s Knit Top
Women’s Dress
Women’s Strappy Dress/Top
Women’s Plus Size Knittop
Women’s Knit And Woven Bottoms
Women’s Skirt
Men’s Woven Shirt
Men’s Woven Bottoms
One-Piece Swimsuit
Swim Top
Swim Bottom
Children’s Infant Through 4–6x Knit Top
Girls 7–16 Knit Top
Children’s Infant Through 4–6x Knit Leggings
Girls 7–16 Knit And Woven Bottoms
Boys 7–16 Knittop
Boys 7–18 Knit And Woven Bottoms
CHAPTER 11 Overseas Communication on Fit and Construction
Technical Design Communication
Comments Page
Photos
Garment Fit Record Keeping
CHAPTER 12 Production and Technical Design
How Production and Technical Design Rely on Each Other
Labels and Hang Tags
Hanger Loops
Tissue & Paper Packaging
Approving a Pre Production Garment For Production
CHAPTER 13 3D: The Next Generation of CAD for Technical Design
Optitex 2D and 3D Cad Design
CHAPTER 14 Blank Technical Design Packet and Grading Sheets for Personal and Professional Use
Garment Cost Sheet
Grading Blank Sheets
Glossary
Index